Suupaa

Suupaa is a sleek, well-stocked Cremorne take on a Japanese “Konbini”. complete with an open kitchen serving up Snacks, Sandos and Bowls of Tonkatsu.

Suupaa

Location: Shop 1/55 Dover St, Cremorne, VIC 3121 Ph: (03) 7073 3352

Sometimes, you look at a food outlet and wonder why on earth someone hasn’t had the same idea before.

Such is the case with Suupaa. A slick new eatery in oh-so-hip Cremorne that marries the idea of a Japanese “Konbini”- convenience store – with an restaurant.

The brainchild of the folks who run Future Future up the road, they have clearly understand their target market. Cremorne has evolved in recent years from a hotch-potch of dilapidated warehouses and old workers’ cottages into a buzzing enclave of funky start-ups and tech-based businesses. The changes have brought in a wave of eager new foodies and a series of high-profile cafes, bars and bakeries to cater to the lunchtime rush and after work diners.

Whilst stalwarts like Tarts Anon have recently closed in the area (due to building redevelopment), other eateries are moving in. Bread-makers to Melbourne’s fine dining scene – Baker Bleu – have just opened a flagship store literally next to Suupaa. Hector’s Deli has popped up with a bakers, butchery and slick sandwich production line next to Richmond Station. Eateries slash bars such as Lilac Wine, Clover and Frederic vie for patrons with restaurants and cafes such as Amatrice Rooftop Restaurant and Ms Frankie Cremorne.

So a Japanese-style convenience store that doubles as a lunchtime time restaurant seems, to us, a brilliant idea.

The Space

Discreetly housed on the ground floor of a new build on Dover Street, Suupaa is all shiny tiles and chrome finishes.

To the right, there’s an array of fridges, carrying drinks, take away meals and a curated range of Japanese pantry supplies such as Miso Soup and Condiments. There’s also one of the most discreet bars in town. And tucked between the bar and the chillers there’s a “Self Serve Station” stocked with Coffee on Tap and Steamed Buns.

Spin to the left and there’s the cafe proper, delineated in dark blue tiling, with a long, curved, blue velvet couch and pops of scarlet from red-backed chairs.

The focus of the wee dining area is a cube-shaped open kitchen. Here, chefs are busy whipping up orders for diners who’ve chosen to sit and eat rather than grab and go.

The vibe of Suupaa is calm, classy efficiency. Very modern Japanese.

The Food

Apart from the fridges of classic convenience store offerings, Suupaa has a chest chiller packed with take away options.

There are a number of Onigiri, including a fantastic fusion Mortadella with Fluffy Egg & Nikiri Mayo ($7). There’s also a great Pulled Chicken Sando with Big Mac Kewpie & Nori ($12). However, our pick of the sandwiches is the crunchy/soft Tempura Oyster Mushroom, Umami Mayo & Slaw on light as air Shokupan ($18).

Another option is to pick up one of the Suupaa ready-made Bowls. The Wagyu Beef Hayashi ($19) has already sold out when we visit, but there are a few portions of Chicken with Soba Noodles ($18) left.

Of course, if you manage to score a table, you can lunch from the in-house menu. That excellent Oyster Mushroom Sando again makes an appearance, along with 2 others. We try the Ocean Trout Tataki Koppepan with Tartare Sauce & Pickled Radish ($20) and it’s one of the most satisfying fish rolls we’re had in ages.

If you want to challenge your conceptions of Japanese fare, then the Udon Bolognese, Pancetta & Katsuboshi Parmesan Cream ($25) is a fantastic twist on the Italian classic.

The Drinks

Suupaa carries quite a selection of beverages.

First up, there’s the fridge of familiar Japanese thirst-quenchers. Secondly, there’s that self-service “Coffee on Tap” area. But don’t forget that snug little bar that we mentioned at the start.

Along with a handful of Beers and Wines, there is a trio of Cocktails as well. If you like things spicy, then the Wasabi Margarita ($16) should sort you out.

And if alcohol at with a Donburi isn’t your thing, then perhaps the Iced Matcha with Milo Foam ($10) sounds more appealing?

Overall

The buzz around Suupaa is well-deserved.

In a suburb stuffed full of great day-time eating options, another straight forward sandwich bar is unlikely to make much ground. But a Japanese convenience store with Sandwiches, Donburi and more? Now you’re talking.