Etta

In a city bursting with thriving Wine Bars, Etta continues to lead the pack. Small, but classy, the Wine List is sharp, but the restaurant is the real powerhouse.

Etta

Location: 60 Lygon St, Brunswick East, VIC 3057 Ph: (03) 9448 8233

Over time, Etta Dining has reached borderline legendary status in Eatability’s hive mind.

What, at first glance, is another slick neighbourhood wine bar, is actually so much more. The X factor is that this Brunswick East restaurant has a pedigree that few other places can ever hope to emulate. Owner Hannah Green has an enviable talent for spotting an up and coming young chef. Previously, she put Rosheen Kaul in charge of the Etta kitchen and she’s since gone on to huge things. Currently, Lorcan Kan heads up the pass and with a passion for fermentation and preservation, he is the perfect fit for a trend-setting spot like Etta.

The ease with which Etta Dining maintains its reputation as a place for culinary innovation is impressive. As such, we are thrilled to grab a table on a wintery Friday evening.

For a chic and busy Italian-centric venue in the ‘burbs, see our piece on Grazia Restaurant

The Space

Modest at first glance, Etta actually goes back a surprising way.

Once a fish and chip shop, the front section of the premises now houses a small bar. Patrons sit clustered around its marble top and in discreet, but snug banquettes, to the side of the room.

If you’re booked for dinner, then a charming server will lead you past the buzzing open kitchen into the wee restaurant out the back. Here, the same mushroom and grey colour palette and dimmed lights sooth. A slash of vibrancy comes from a verdant enclosed garden behind the marble welcoming area.

The ambience is calm sophistication. There’s the air of a highly professional hospitality team – both front and back of house – but none of the stuffiness that can sometimes comes with such polish.

When we arrive, our table is still in use, so we are guided through to the cute courtyard out the back. Some customers are bravely tucking into food al fresco, whilst others sip Wines under the glowing heaters. Whatever you feel like, there’s another very helpful server there to hand out menus and take orders.

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As luck would have it, we have barely decided on our opening drink when our table becomes available and we are escorted back inside.

The Food

There are four of us for dinner and we all firmly believe that you can tell how good an evening is going to be on the quality of its Bread and Butter. Etta more than passes the test.

This is no dainty, rationed Bread Roll, gently lowered to a side plate with tongs. In contrast, it’s a half a loaf of real peasant-pleasing fodder in the form of Wild Life Bakery Sourdough and Smoked Brown Butter ($5ea). With a dense, dark crust and soft, chewy body, its superb. And the Smoked Brown Butter is totally addictive.

As well as the Bread, we share the Roasted Pumpkin, Seed Satay and Jerusalem Artichoke Crisp ($28). It proves to be a complex plate of harmonious flavours and textures. Soft, sweet Pumpkin, sharp Pickled Onion, crunchy, earthy Artichoke Crisps and aromatic Sauce. The combination really works.

Another highly original plate is the Scallop with Bay of Fires Cheddar & Pickled Apple ($14ea). Having briefly lived in Southern Italy, I’m a firm believer that Seafood and Cheese generally don’t go together, so Scallop and Cheddar sounds like the Devil’s work. However, how wrong can you be?

Fat, glassy-centred Scallops, caramelised with sharp Cheese, all undercut by spiky Apple. We are all converts. Not only that, but the presentation of the shellfish is lovely.

And so, to the main event.

The Cantonese Style Barbecue Pork, Farm leaves and Rhubarb is a sticky, molasses-dark wonder. The fragrant flesh slides from the bone and we wrap it eagerly in fresh, crisp greenery. On the side, we have a bowl of Brassicas, Fermented Soy & Toasted Buckwheat ($15), which proves a great choice with the richness of the meat.

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Next to this, we try the Cumin Spiced Lamb, Jalapeno Sausage, Labneh and Yellow Beans ($52). The juicy, blushing Lamb is gorgeous, but the Jalapeno Sausage is the unexpected star, punching well above expectations. To ease all that prime protein down, we tuck into a Side of Red Oak, Ramarro Farm Radish and Nashi with a lively Curry Leaf Dressing.

Although both Desserts on the Etta menu sound appealing, we only have room for one and plump for the Chilli Oil Parfait, Melon, Lychee & Lime Leaf Sorbet ($17). Happily, it’s a smart move. The Chilli Oil kicks whilst the fruity tang refreshes. That said, the Ginger Cake with Banana Miso Caramel & Creme Fraiche ($19) delivered to the table behind us looks equally divine.

The Drinks

As something of a connoisseur of a Gin and Tonic, how a wine bar serves my poison of choice is important to me. The bar staff at Etta Dining pass with flying colours. Not only is the server’s suggestion delicious, but I appreciate the separate flask of Tonic.

Of course, the Wine quaffers in our party are also content. This is, after all, a wine bar. And with a ‘List charting 250 odd bottles of what some of the best wine growing spots currently have to offer, there’s bound to be something you like.

Overall

Etta is a beacon of modern Wine Bar excellence on a number of fronts.

Firstly, the Wine List is cleverly chosen and poured with care. Which brings us to the serving staff, who are uniformly knowledgeable and cheery. Then there’s the food. And yes. It’s seriously good. For balance of both textures and flavours, few establishments can compete.

We are already getting excited about our next visit.